Hver onsdag er jeg på universitetet for å snakke engelsk med en gruppe studenter som rett og slett bare ønsker å trene seg på å snakke engelsk. Det er både gutter og jenter i 19 års-alderen. Noen av jentene er litt beskjedne, men er aktive og utadvendte når de får være sammen i en liten jentegruppe. Det er greit, og vi deler dem i to grupper.

Jeg tar med meg min PC og har lastet ned noen bilder fra Palestina vi kan snakke om. Det blir godt mottatt, og det blir stadig litt mer engelsk enn arabisk etter hvert som tiden går. Forrige uke ble vi enige om at de selv kunne ta med bilder på en ”stick”. Vi kombinerte kommentarene til deres bilder med framtidsdrømmer.

-Jeg ønsker å se verden, reise og oppleve andre kulturer. Kanskje jeg til og med kan få studere i utlandet?  Det hadde vært en stor drøm.

-Ja, det vil jeg også, sier en annen jente.
De fleste er kledd i tradisjonelle arabiske klær. Noen er mer moderne enn andre og har vestlige klær, men alle dekker håret med sjal. De sminker seg, mange er skikkelig tøffe med farger som ”matcher” og skoene er ofte meget feminine. Det er minst et like stort mangfold her som i Norge, kanskje mer.

Jentene ønsker å oppleve, lære og utvikle sine evner. Det står øverst på ønskelisten i håp for framtiden. Noen ønsker selvfølgelig familie og barn, men ikke alle. En jente i jeans, tunika og matchende sjal sier:

-Jeg er allerede gift, men ønsker meg ikke barn. Jeg er faktisk ikke så glad i barn. Mannen min vet det, og det er greit.

En annen jente er ikke helt enig.

-Jeg ønsker meg barn, men vil bare ha to, ikke 7-8 barn, slik som mine foreldre har.

Jentene er åpne og uredde når de sier sin mening.
Religion er viktig og flere ytrer ønske om å besøke Jerusalem for å se de store moskeene der. Det er en drøm som kan gå i oppfyllelse, men det er meget vanskelig. Spørsmålet er nemlig om de israelske myndigheter godkjenner en søknad om innreise til Jerusalem. Grunnen for innreisetillatelse skal være god.  Ønsket om å se et hellig sted og be er sjelden god nok grunn.

En time går raskt i godt selskap. For meg er dette ett av høydepunktene i mine arbeidsoppgaver som jeg mer enn gjerne utfører som frivillig her i Palestina.

Jeg tenker ofte på hvem som får mest ut av disse stundene. Jentene gir meg tillit, derfor tør jeg være åpen, utvitende og spørrende. Jeg stiller mange spørsmål og får svar. De er heller ikke redde for å spørre. Gjennom samtalen får jeg forståelse av hvilke verdier de setter høyt i livene sine.  Selv om mye handler om ønsker og håp for seg selv, er det ikke annet enn selvfølgeligheter i vår vestlige og ”frie” verden. Jentene er reflekterte og meget hyggelige å bli kjent med.

Jeg får mye å tenke på og blir som mange ganger ellers ofte positivt overrasket.

It is Friday night, and we receive a call from on of our contacts. He is a journalist here in Tulkarem

-There will be a demonstration in Shufa tomorrow. Do you want to come?
The answer is, of course, yes.
Our schedule is rapidly changed. A demonstration will be a new experience. We have just read about it and seen pictures. Anything may happen. The air is filled with excitement.

-What will happen and how will it be?
Tomorrow we will know.
From the media at home we have seen pictures from violent demonstration with shooting, teargas and throwing stones. How will it be tomorrow?
 

 

Arriving Shufa the village is calm and silent as always. People here take their time. They like to talk, laugh and have a good time together with friends and relatives. It is same today, no exception.
We are having a very sweet cup of tea with the family living in the house where the Kindergarden is. The Kindergarten is built by help from USAID.

Why is this demonstration taking place?

The issue is the road blocks and the earth mouths. There are 4 of them and the people in Shufa just want to be able to move easily to Tulkarem in order to work, study or simply see friends. Three weeks ago there was another demonstration here. Then 13 were injured.

-When is this demonstration going to take place?

People are moving.
As some of us are walking towards the road reserved for settlers only, more people join us. The group of people is becoming about 80. There are many young boys carrying signs make by a local artist. Today there are men and boys of all ages. The older men are among the young boys making sure they do not get excited. It is very important that nobody start throwing stones.

There is one leader of the group telling them what to do and how to behave. We are at the junction where the dirt road meets the paved settlers’ road.

-Sit down, hold your sign high up, do not make noise, be calm and listen to my instructions.
The leader has everyone’s complete attention. They listen to him, and they do as they are told.

As an observer from a country that dos not care too much if a crowd gather together, I think:

-Nothing will happen here. There will not be any soldiers or settlers, because this is just a group of mostly young men without weapons and staying very quiet together with their home made signs.

I am very wrong!
 Within 5-10 minutes the first military truck roars up the hill and stops in the curve almost in the middle of the road.

-What is happening?
More truck s are coming, until there are 5-7 trucks and about 20 soldiers. The soldiers are armed, but they do not seem very alert. They gather together, before 4 of them walks up the road behind us. Nobody moves in the crowd. It is silent.
After a few seconds, many of the Palestinians start to move and talk. The older men are talking to the young boys and the atmosphere is ok.

I am surprised that the soldiers are bothering to come.
They are preparing something I do not know.
The leader of the Palestinians rises and gives some orders.

After a while the Commander in charge and the Palestinian leader approach each other. They talk, they take some phone calls and they give orders to their groups.
Suddenly everybody starts to move. Calmly the soldiers return to their car as the Palestinian group start walking away. Everything happens at the same time, just like the two leaders have agreed about. They have decided to have a meeting the coming week. If not, there will be a new demonstration next Saturday.

This was a very peaceful demonstration, and hopefully an efficient one!

 

Today in Shufa my watch stopped working. The battery was out.

Back in Tulkarem  I passed a store selling watches, glasses and sunglasses. I dropped by and asked if it was possible to change battery in my watch.

-Of course, was the answer.

I was just about to ask when I could return to pick my watch, when she started changing the battery right away.

Surprised and content I watched her working. In about 30 seconds she was done and asked for 5 shekels!

I expressed my gratitude for her being so efficient and giving me such a good service, and I said:

-Shukran! (Thank you)

 

Compared with Norway, I would have turned in my watch and asked to come back in maybe 30 minutes. After 30 minutes the price would have been at least 150 shekel!

 

Reflecting about the last week, I would definitely say YES.

What makes me think that?

I attended graduation celebrations for three kindergartens last week!

 

Children are the same all over the world.

They are curious, spontaneous and straight forward.

Parents all over the world love their children, they are proud of them and they wish the best for them. Concerning this there is no difference between Norway and Palestine.

 

The children are nicely dressed up.

They have practiced for this celebration in order to perform for their parents.

Every parent looks at their own child, every movement, every expression and no matter what; they are proud.

As a mother I know the feeling!

 

The children are excited, most of them very quiet, well dressed up and ready to make their parents happy and proud. They have practiced and they know the songs by hearth.

 

The content of the songs is about behavior and moral. Brushing teeth is necessary, doing homework is important and following the rules of the Koran, behaving well and being nice to other people.

 

There are speeches, there are gifts for the children and there are laughter, happiness and celebration.

 

We certainly share the hope for the future through our children.

          

 

         

How can I explain something most Norwegians have ever seen or experienced?

Imagining having a security control on the road several places driving from Hamar to Oslo!

Usually that takes 1, 5 hours. With check points like they have in Palestine, you never know how long it would take to drive this distance.

 

Monitoring check points is an important part of our work.

What do we do while monitoring?

Mainly we see, hear and feel the tenseness in the air by using our senses. Sometimes we intervene by asking questions, and often Palestinians and soldiers start speaking to us first.

We make notes of that happens, we take photos and we write reports after every check point visit.

 

Entering a check point area, we never know how the next hour or two will be.  Every time this is a new experience.

 

Check points are a very visible result of the conflict. When people are here, they are reminded of a complicated history and the present situation in the Middle East.

 Most Palestinians are passing a check point regularly, almost every day. This is a part of their daily lives. Sometimes it is smooth, but they often have to wait, sometimes for hours.

 

Riding the bus is a good opportunity to get in contact with people. The other day I was sitting next to a student who was studying medicine in Nabulus, which is a 25 minutes drive from Tulkarem if there were no check points.

-          My family live in Tulkarem, but I live in Nabulus. I only go home once or twice a month, because the check points take such a long time to pass.

-          Young men like me have to go to a certain line, because they check us very carefully.

-          I do not like to spend so much time on this, and I never know if I will be late for class.

-          Besides, it feels humiliating to go through these checks all the time.  

 

Monitoring check points may be difficult. Palestinians expect us to accomplish something. They want results. At the same time they understand our situation well. Most people express their gratefulness of our presence and hope we are able to influence our government to speak out for justice and peace.

We often speak with soldiers. Usually they are curious who we are and what we do. Their reactions differ a lot. Here are two examples:

1.       These detained Palestinians will burn I hell. You should go back to your country and do something more useful with you life. I have to be here once a month every year, otherwise I would never have been here.

2.       Oh, you are doing the same as Machsom Watch (which are Israeli women monitoring check points, like us). It is good of you to come here. When you are present, we are trying to behave better towards the Palestinians.

 

Monitoring check points is demanding. It challenges me about communication, observation, values, attitude, behavior and roles.

There is always room for improvement.

 

 

-What you do here?
Did I hear right?
-Pardon me?
-What you do here?
Returning from a check point at Beit Iba, Nabulus, a woman sitting beside me in the bus suddenly asked me this question. As a coincidence we were only women in the bus.

I could not believe that she asked this, but briefly explained about our check point work.

Before I finished she asked the same again.

-What you do here?

She seemed angry and impatient. Her English was not perfect, but I understood what she meant: What are you accomplishing here?

 

For a moment I was astonished, but I had been thinking about this, so I was not chocked.

It is a very relevant question, and extremely difficult to answer!

 

Nothing, I was about to say, but instead I said;

-Sometimes we cannot do much, but I hope we are able to make a tiny difference once in a while!

-Yes, it is true. You cannot do anything.

She seemed somewhat nicer now.

-I know that you are doing your best, but your government does not understand. The politicians are doing nothing. Why do they not do anything? We want the International community to do something and support us in our struggle to be free.

-I know that people like you do their best, and we are happy to have you here. Welcome!

But you should tell your politicians to do more, be more concerned in helping us.

 

Then she changed the subject;

-My name is Mounah, what is your name?

After telling her, she said:

-We are neighbours. I know where you live. You can visit me some day and have a cup of coffee and tee.

 

I was surprised of this conversation, which was very useful.

One of my most important parts of this work begins when I am back home.

Then I will give information about my experiences, which I think is very difficult.

 

How can I be able to express what I have seen, heard and found out in a way that other people will be able to understand?

Will it make a difference for the Palestinians?

Will these 3 months be more than a special experience for people like me?

Maybe the ones who should be in this program are politicians on a high level?

 

I have more questions than answers!

-There does the bus go from?

-Where do I find a bus stop?

-Where do I find a time schedule?

-How long does it take to go from one place to another?

-How much does it cost?

 

These are common questions to ask when you want to go by public transportation in Europe.

These are questions it is hard to answer in Palestine. It all depends!

 

My first bus ride was from Jerusalem to Ramallah, which takes 20 minutes if everything goes smoothly. I was not alone, and it felt safe to have someone to go with the first time.

Now I do not mind taking a bus just by myself.

I just tell where I am going and then I am well taken care of until I am at my final destination!

 

So how does this work?

It is practical and in some sense also very economical.

·         The buses are small; they take 7-15 persons.

·         They are yellow and easy to notice.

·         There are bus stations in the villages and cities, and it is possible to stop a bus and jump on anywhere. If there are no seats available, the bus does not stop. So there are no bus stops, they stop when people give a sign they need a ride.

·         The bus leaves the bus station when the bus is full. Usually it takes a few minutes. I have experienced to wait for 20 minutes at the most.

·         If I want to stop on the way before the final destination, I just give a sign to the driver, and he will stop where I want to get off.

·         The price from Jerusalem to Tulkarem, which takes at least 1, 5 hours, is about kr. 45! In the Tulkarem areal you can go far for kr. 15.

·         We pay during the ride. Usually we know the price. If I sit in the back, I hand the money over to the person in front of me, who gives it to the driver.  

 

It is impossible to know how long the travel is going to take. It depends on the check points!

Sometimes we do not stop at all, other times we have to wait, in worst case for hours.

If there were no check points, travelling would be quick. The distance between villages and cities is usually quite short.

Check points are another story, difficult to explain and hard to believe!

 

Being on the road is probably the most dangerous activity you do here in Palestine. Everybody is driving fast, and car accidents often occur.

Driving ecological is not an issue!

Besides of that; as a foreigner I am well taken care of, and I am sure to reach my destination.

Riding the bus is cheap, easy and usually very fast!

 

-Congratulations, Liv,  Conny said as he came out of his room.

-What for?

I did not remember what day it was, and I did not think that a Swede would remind me of the 17th of May!

The closest feeling of 17th of May was going to church at eight in the morning.

 

In Tulkarem there is only one Christian family, and they go to the Greek Orthodox Church about once a month when they have a priest coming from Jerusalem.

The church was destroyed in 2006 and rebuilt in 2007. The money to rebuild came from The Patriarch, private donors and about kr. 50.000 from Tulkarem community, which is mainly influenced by Muslims! 

We were most welcome and included in their ceremony.

 

Like much of our work and experiences here, the days are filled with contrasts.

Our next appointment was in the refugee camp. This was our first English conversation class for women.

I find it very interesting and nice to speak with women here. They seem proud of getting to know us, and they take good care of us.

 

-Come here, one of them said after the English lesson and off we went and ended up in a Fatah meeting! They were about to vote for 25 representatives in community of Tulkarem.

 These women took us safely through the crowd and into a room with lots of people where the campaign was going on. When we left the place, they took us out of the back door where we had to pass a group of Muslim men praying.

 

On the way back we stopped at store where women in Tulkarem sell their handcraft. There was a dress hanging there with some embroidery on, and I asked for the price.

 

- It is very expensive, – the lady answered without telling the price.

Now I really became curious.

-It cost kr. 180, she told me and explained that another were cheaper because the material and the work was different.

-How long does it take to make a dress like this?

-About 2 months.

I feel comfortable buying from this store in order to give a direct support to the women of Tulkarem and at the same time get nice gifts.

 

-May I ask where you are from and what do you do here?

There was a young man with his family in the store asking in a polite way and with a slight Palestinian accent.

We are easy to notice, not only because of our look, but also because of our cloths and vest.

 

After explaining it to him, I briefly got his story:

 

- You are lucky to be here at this time. A few years ago, it was much worse.

I live in the US now, I am married to a woman from Jaffa, Israel, and we are here on vacation, but we leave tomorrow. Four years ago I when I was here last time, I was shot in my leg!

 

In the evening we were in the center square talking with some kids and students. They enjoy spending time with us practicing their English.

At the same time looking to Netanya, Israel, on a distance of 17 km, which is unattainable for most Palestinians, I was asking myself questions:

-What will happen if this conflict suddenly came to an end?

-I was also reflecting about freedom, which is one the main issues people here want to talk about, or more specific; the lack of freedom to move around and cross the boarder to another country!

 

Another day is over; I am full of new impressions.

This 17th of May has certainly been a different experience this year, and the word, freedom, has got a new dimension in my mind.

 

 

 In the Greek Orthodox Church

 

 

It is 60 years ago, on the 14th of May; the state of Israel was founded.

The Israelis start remembering and celebrating on Memorial Day, the 7th of May, and on Independence Day, the 8th of May. This year they even got a visit of President Bush from the 13th of May to the 15th of May.

The Palestinians call this day Nakba, which means “catastrophe”. 60 years ago they lost their country. Since then there has been a conflict between the Palestinians and the Israelis, which is still not solved.

It is hard to say when this conflict really started, and the history from 1800 is important to know. The idea of founding a Jewish stat was present in some people’s minds, with Theodor Herzl as one of the most famous.     

When the Palestinians celebrate Nakba today, they march in the streets. School kids and young people are the majority. They are waving with the UN flag and carrying a big black key. The key is a symbol of the day the fled their homes.

 

In 1948 they just locked their doors, thinking they would be back again with a short time. It did not happen that way.

 

-My father told us to be good to the Israelis because they had had a very hard time during the Second World War. We wanted to treat them well and live in peace with them in this country, – says a Palistinian who was just a little boy in 1948.

-We were wrong. What we hoped for and expected, did not happen. We were naïve.-

 

In a pamphlet called “This week in Palestine, no 121”, I found something said by Theodor Herzl, the father of the idea of a Jewish state, and the first Prime Minister of Israel, David Ben-Gurion.

 

Theodor Herzl

-We shall try to spirit the penniless population across the border by procuring employment for it n the transit countries, while denying it any employment in our own country. The property owners will over to our side. Both the process of expropriation and removal of the poor must be carried out discreetly and circumspectly.-

 

Hearing about an Israeli master plan today, it seems like this kind of plan might has been present for a while.

 

David Ben-Gurion

-If I was an Arab leader, I would never make terms with Israel. That is natural: we have taken their country. Sure, God promised it to us, but what does that matter to them? Our God is not theirs. We come from Israel, it’s true. But two thousand years ago, and what is that to them? There has been anti-Semitism, the Nazis, Hitler, Auschwitz, but was that their fault? They see only one thing: we have come her and stolen their country. Why should they accept that?-

 

The 14th of May in Tulkarem was a noisy experience. At noon school children in all ages filled the streets running, screaming, some wearing a back t-shirt with 1948 on their backs, some waving with flags and some was carrying a big black key made out of a thin plate of wood. The teachers were present, but the crowd was still unpredictable and noisy as they went from the Centrum square to the Kadoori University.

 

Israelis and Palestinians mark this anniversary differently, but most of the people share the same hope: Peace.

 

 

 

This morning Conny and I are ready to leave the house at 5.15. Half an hour later we are at the gate. There we meet farmers who have the permit to go to their own fields on the other side of the fence which has been built by the Israelis. Not all the farmers have a permit, and they are not at the gate, of course.

They need to be there early, because the opening hours are limited. In the morning it is possible to pass between 6 and 7.

Today I meet mainly older people at the gate. They are waiting with their donkeys. Some of them understand English and one dare to speak some. I greet them with one of the few words I know in Arabic. They smile, greet me back, and we have contact. It is easy to talk with these people. They are friendly to me, we smile and laugh together. My Arabic is very poor, and I am sure it sounds funny, but it does not matter for our communication.

As the sun rises, the time is almost six, and today the soldiers are opening the gate almost on time, just 5 minutes late.

We are moving towards the gate. The farmers, their wives and the donkeys are disciplined. They are in a line, and they do not move towards to the soldiers before they give them a sign to come. This morning they are checking the papers quite quickly.

When the farmers are about to go on, they turn to us with a smile and wave good bye.

 

After a while more people come, they all pass through today.

Half an hour later we hear a donkey screaming. We recognize the donkey, because it is always screaming as it approaches the gate while the farmer has a hard time holding it back. This donkey is a quick one and likes to run fast. We are all laughing and greeting the farmer who speaks English well. He is able to stop the donkey, we shake hands and then the soldier waves him forward. The donkey screams again, and the soldiers also smile for a short while.

We stay at the gate until 5 after 7. Then the soldiers close the gate, and we start walking back to the village to catch a bus to Tulkarem.

The sun rises rapidly, and we know it will be a warm day for all of us.

 

 

Deir Al Ghusun